To ensure you and your customers have the resources needed to get the job done, we’ve created instructional installation videos that show your customers how to seamlessly integrate eave trim with our high-quality metal roof panels.
Learn more about the installation of eave trim using exposed fasteners by watching the short video or reading the transcript below:
When you’re doing new construction, or where in a situation where you stripped the roof right down to the deck and you have bare wood, you always want to use an underlayment beneath the metal. It’s there for protection against condensation. ABC recommends a 30-pound felt. Synthetic underlayments on the market are either peel-and-stick, or just use nails or staples. Both are good depending on what the application and the slope of the roof.
We get a lot of questions about metal roofing, and one of the main ones is, “Where do I start? What’s the sequence of events?” So, what would be the first piece of metal that we would put on a roof? We’re going to show our audience how to install the eave trim in an exposed fastener application for the SL-16 or the LokSeam panel series.
Here is your basic eave trim, and you can see it has a drip edge. On the underside, it’s been hemmed, so you have a clean, always showing paint. You don’t have a cut edge here. This is what we’re going to be using for the installation of this eave.
In this case, we have two corners; we have a corner on the left and a corner on the right to finish. The first thing I’m going to do is mark the eave trim for my left corner. I’ve got the eave trim up and I’ve let it overhang by about an inch or an inch and a half because I’m going to cut it a little bit. I’m making a mark on the underside, tracing the fascia and the gable board.
You can see that I’ve made my marks, tracing the fascia and the gable board onto the panel. These lines are also going to be my bend line where I’m going to turn the corner. Using my snips, the first thing that I’m going to do is cut up to the line, then I’m going to remove the part that sits on top of the roof. I make a slight angled cut to remove this hem, and this piece is going to fold around the front. You see that when I put this on, this tab has been folded around the corner. The drip edge has been angled a little bit so that when the gable trim comes on, they meet up with a nice mitered corner. There you have the left corner. I’m going to do the same thing on the right-hand side of this roof.
Now I have the eave trim that’s been prepared for this particular section. You can see that it’s been bent around on each corner. I’m going to fasten it to the roof deck using pancake head fasteners, but you could also use a roofing nail. My only suggestion is that when you’re fastening a trim like this, if you’re using a roofing nail, it’s a lot harder to take up if you’ve made a mistake.
This is a pancake fastener. It’s called a pancake fastener because of its flat head. It’s a low-profile screw that you can use on trim and it doesn’t dimple the panel that goes on top of it. It comes in either a Phillips head or now, more often, you see it in a Robertson head, as well. This is what we’re going to use to install the various trims that we’re using.
You can see we have the installation of a standard eave trim for use on the SL-16 panel. This is going to be for an exposed fastener application, with the detail on this trim that we have folded around each corner on the left and the right.