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The installation detail that we are looking at now is the exposed fastener gable trim. On one side of the trim piece, the roof side, we have a fastening flange. We also have the exterior face that has the drip edge on it and this piece caps off the gable of the roof.
If I put this piece in place, just to mark it, the first thing that we need to do is measure and cut the angle so that this gable trim is flush with the end wall. I'm going to measure the distance from here to the wall, and that's going to give me the difference that I need to cut into the piece. I'm going to take the measurement from the top of the trim to the end wall, and that's going to give me my angle. In this case, you can see that it is 2”. I'm going to go cut that so we can mark the corner of the gable where it meets the eave.
Now that we've cut the angle into the trim, we can see that it's flush with the end-wall, and we can make our marks for the corner. As we've done with previous trims, I’ll make a mark in line with the fascia on the reverse side so that we know where to cut it and where to bend it.
So now that I have my marks, I’ll to cut along these lines and bend along the lines that I traced off the fascia. Now that we've finished the two ends of the gable trim, we've finished the corner where it meets the eave, and we have finished the top where it meets the end-wall by putting the angle into it. Test it to make sure that it fits nicely, and the then apply tape-seal underneath the nailing flange to make sure that we have a water-tight seal between the roof panel and the gable trim.
Lastly, we need to put exposed fasteners every two feet and then we're done.
Here we have the concealed fastener rake or gable trim and we'll install this with a continuous cleat. The trick here is to slide the continuous cleat into the hem of the trim piece. Put it against the roof and let it stick out by about an inch. Make a mark at the crease line and do the same thing towards the peak of the roof. Let it stick out again, just a little bit past, and make a mark. Next, take off the rake or gable trim, take the cleat out, and install it.
As you can see, the continuous cleat runs wild past the ridge line, so we'll cut this. With the continuous cleat installed, we can make our marks on the roof for the z-trim. The z-trim has paint on one side and primer on the other. It's very important when installing it that the paint be on the roof side so that when people look up at the roof they see continuous color throughout the trim. We will position this on the roof so that we can fasten it to the roof deck and install the rake gable trim.
With the rake trim in place, I'm going to slide the z-trim underneath and make a mark on the roof deck so I know where to install it. I’ll also mark on the panel so I know where to fasten the z-trim. Next, cut it to length. You can then apply tape-seal to the bottom and fasten it to the roof deck.
Before we put the gable trim on, we need to put tape-seal on top of the z-trim to make sure that water doesn't roll between that gable trim and the z and into the roof. Apply the tape-seal to the top of the z just as we have at the eave and other places of the roof. We are ready to install the gable trim using pop rivets with tape-seal in between the gable trim and the z.
There are two finish details on the gable trim that we are going to show. One is the detail that takes place at the corner at the eave, and the other is the finish detail that takes place at the peak. For the corner detail at the eave, mark the gable trim and then make a series of simple folds so that when you look at the corner of the roof it is clean and boxed in. I’ll make a mark in line with the face and the back of the fascia to create my bend lines. Fold the side in first, then fold the top down, and close off this hole.
I've extended my line across the top and on the reverse. Next, I'm going to extend this line, and these two lines are now my bend lines, and they are pretty much in line with one another. Extend those lines by an inch so you how much to bend them down and where to cut them. In order to fold them, cut along the spline up to your line. Now we've made our marks and cut the excess metal off. I'm going to fold this side using the seamers and fold the top always along our lines.
We've finished the corner and now we need to clip it on to the continuous cleat. We've closed off the end in line with the face, and now we will come up to the ridge line and prepare it for where they meet at the peak. For this particular piece, make our plumb line and leave a little bit of it extending so that the next one gets cut flushed with the plumb line and overlaps. I'm going to make my mark and use my small square. Once I'm level, I make my trace to create my plumb line. I cut a little bit past that so that we have an overlap when the other gable trim is installed. In this case, I'll cut off the drip edge along that line and leave this tab on so that we have an overlap when the next gable trim comes on.
Now we can install this on top of the z-trim, making sure to use tape-seal between the z-trim and the gable trim. You can see that we have the tape-seal on top of the z-trim and I can install the gable trim by clipping it into the continuous cleat, making sure that it is tight on the front to the corner and that we follow our plumb line at the ridge.
Now that the gable trim is in place, we can fasten it to the z-trim through the tape-seal using pop rivets. Drill a hole for the first pop rivet, making sure that you go through the gable trim and the outer leg of the z-trim. You want to make sure that when you go through the z-trim you don't actually punch down and put a hole through the panel of the roof.
Using a standard pop rivet tool, 1/8” pop rivets have been painted to match the roof. We're going to install these through the z-trim. After the first pop rivet, I'll install the rest all the way to the ridge and space it 1 foot on center.
And there you have it, an installed gable trim, hidden fasteners using a z-trim, and a continuous cleat.
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